I left from Moalboal early, having a bit of a trip before me with several changes in transportation. Jumped on a bus, met 4 danish girls from Fredericia that were going to Oslob to see the whale sharks. Gave them some tips about the waterfall and told then to be at the beach early to avoid the crowd. Bus stopped at some random house in a small village for a bathroom break and before we knew it all 5 danes were invited in by the grandmother who spoke very well english. Their small house had a view that would have cost a fortune in Denmark.
I got off the bus and split from the girls. Jumped in a tricycle to drive the last 5 km to the ferry. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rF9OBt5JFuU
Arrived 10 min before the ferry left.
Got off the ferry in Dumaguete and crammed myself into the last spot in a jeepney, backpack going on the roof. Was dropped of at the busstation, asking the guy there which bus I needed to take and he just pointed at the back of the bus leaving the terminal so off I went jumping onto the bus at the last second.
From there I was half standing half sitting for a while before the conductor pointed at me to let me know that this was Malatakay a small roadside village with a road leading down to the water. On the way down there I met Jed, a dive master at Marios homestay on Apo. Reaching the beach I found that I had to wait for several hours before a boat would be available to go to Apo. The beach was full of people, roosters and supplies for the coming fiesta in honor of the islands patron saint Vincent. In Moalboal I had heard about this fiesta but didn't really think too much about the logistical consequences of this...
So after chatting to the local coast guard master Rudolp for a couple of hours and meeting Abdi a fellow diver and veteran of Apo island we went on the boat and made the 7-8 km crossing.
Once I got on the island I had some accomodation problems, as everything was booked by locals for the fiesta. I managed to secure a single night and then would have to hope for the best the next day. First thing I did was to climb the highest point I could find, getting up to the lighthouse of the island and enjoying the view looking over towards Negros Oriental.
I met up with Jade, Frederic, Thomas and Carmen that I had met in Moalboal and together we went to a small local eatery away from the beach and through small walkways leading into the village.
The place had kareoke of course and while ordering I noticed old danish newspapers, asked the lady behind the counter why they had those but she didnt know. Then a big tall foreigner comes over to our table and starts talking to us, I immediately recognize the accent as danish and it turns out this guy, Chano, originally was from Silkeborg, came to Apo island 12 years ago on exactly this day during the fiesta, got taken in by the locals and before he knew it fell in love with his current wife Marife and now lives with her in Copenhagen.. A fascinating and scary story as it seemed to fit my profile quite well :)
Left to right: Me, Frederic, Jade, Carmen and Thomas doing kareoke
During the next 3 days we would experience the hospitality, community, friendship and happiness of the people of Apo Island. Apo island is small, there are paved walking paths and carts for transportation, power is only on for 3,5 hours in the evening, meaning all is mostly quiet around 9.30. People live in bamboo and concrete huts and water is collected from the well.
It is a simple life, fishing, raising pigs and chicken, playing basket- and volleyball. The island has an elementary- and high school. All this changes for 3 days on April 3-5. Power is on till 3 am to support the disco on the basketball court. Every morning you are woken by the sound of pigs being dragged to slaughtering for the nights feast, the number of roosters increases ten fold to support the multiple cockfights, Golden Eagle beers in 1 litre bottles are a plenty. People walk from house to house eating, drinking. Families are reunited for the first time in years as parents come home from working abroad supporting their family. It is a special time and you can feel it.. And you are happy just to be allowed to take part of it...
Preparations for the boat parade
So the night started with Kareoke, Golden Eagles, 12 year Philipino Tanduay rum at the Bajado family eatery and store. Then around 11 pm we went to the basketball court to check out the disco, but it all seemed kinda strange.. There were flashing colorfull lights, but the bright normal lights were still on illuminating it like a ballroom. Only a few brave souls had ventured out there doing a little side stepping and then half the village was just watching in anticipation.. At this point boosted by impressive highscores in kareoke, lots of rum and Jades stern willpower, me, her and Frederic crashed the floor and gave it all we got! After 3-5 very long minutes people came rushing out on the floor, the lights turned off and a cheer went up! Disco kept going till 1 am, where I crawled back to my room, ready for 2 dives from 8 o'clock next morning and wondering where I was going to sleep over the next couple of days..
Chano(under the sign, next to Marife) is married into the Bajado family and helped them start up the combined eatery and store.
Next morning I was up early, going to the Liberty resort to check if they had a room for me but I was told to come back later, so I left my gear in the attached dive shop and went out to swim with the fishes...
First dive was at a dive site called Largahan. Unfortunately my mask was giving me trouble and kept getting fogged so I did't enjoy that much. Second dive was at Rock West a much better dive, beatifull soft and hard corals, saw a massive turtle resting on the rocks, sea snakes and there was a good amount of current allowing you to just drift along and enjoy the ride lowering your air consumption and extending the dive.
Bringing back memories of Monkey Island..
After the dive we again went to the eatery for some lunch, my accomodation fate still unsettled.. But Chano and Marife graciously offered to have me as a house guest, where I would have a matress on the floor next to other parts of the family and my own mosquito net. I was very thankfull! After a quick powernap in my new found home I thought I was going for a swim with the turtles but I was wrong.. When trying to hand over the key to Chano I was invited to drink and eat with his friends from the local school system. There was the former principal of the high school of the island Jessie or Sir Jessie as apparently all teachers are knighted in the Phillipines ;-). Sir Roland, elementary school teacher, master of garlic flavored peanut roasting and the ukulele! In addition there were two nice gentlemen from the school district trying to get me drunk in rum. Together we spent the afternoon comtemplating the world, women and cheap chinese viagra!
Leaving my new teaching friends behind it was now time to meet the rest of the Bajado family. The night before I was introduced to Marife's sister Marie Jean, home on vacation from her job in Hong Kong and we were now going to her house for food and drinks. The evening again ended at the disco goin deep into the night at 3 am when the power suddenly is cut and people went home.
Next morning marked the height of the fiesta, almost every household had a pig turning on a spid, cockfights were on from early morning, NO DIVING! Wisely I skipped breakfast before going to Marie Jeans house for the prepared feast!
So all this was consumed at lunch! There was no other alternative than a nap to survice this and be ready for dinner later! Dinner came swiftly and without mercy, serving a new favorite of mine, Kinilaw! Fresh raw fish left to tender in lime juice and vinegar and other secret ingredients, making it full of flavour and very moist.
I also made two new very cute but shy friends, Jonathan and Katherin!
It took a bit of chasing and tickling but eventually they warmed up to me :)
Again a fantastic night, lots of dancing and late night snacking on the remains of the roasted pork belly!
Sunday was a quiet day, a fast drift dive at 11 o'clock from Cogon to Mamsa bringing me up to 12 dives in 8 days. Eatery was closed as the Suan clan, of which the Bajado family is part of, had their reunion at their fathers grave on the mainland so I had lunch with Jade and Frederic at the liberty resort. After the now almost mandatory island nap I went out to visit the last corners of the island I had not yet experienced. A quick walk through the village took me to the Sanctuary a once beautifull coral reef destroyed by a storm several years ago and now a restoration area. From there it was a short climb out to the viewing deck at Rock Point
Coming back towards the other end of the island to get a top view of the village and the two lagoons I was caught by Sir Jessie for a last Golden Eagle and apparently a cursed chicken on my head!
I made it up the steps towards the light house but turned right instead of straight and went through a farm and up to the last viewpoint.
Coming back down I met up with Sir Jessie, Frederic and Jade for some sunset swimming and pictures
The Jabado family reunion had returned to the island and was now filling up the basketball court with more than 300 family members.. Only on the mothers side!!! I got the picture I really wanted with my gracious hosts, fantastic dancers and new friends...
To finish what I came for I got up at 6.30, picked up some flippers at the dive shop and went into the water, the village quiet and only a few boats about....
I went on the boat leaving Apo Island undoubtedly sharing the same
emotions and thoughts as Jade and Frederic.. this place was different.. special.. the moment you stepped on that beach you stopped being a tourist.. Everyone young and old would recognize you walking around, saying good morning and good evening. They would sit down and listen to your thoughts and ideas.. share their food, drinks and home.. Their words.. "To die for your happines..."
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